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Balmenhorn
13671 feet/4167 meters
Aosta (Monte Rosa), Italy, Europe
Last update: April 15th, 2002
© Copyright by
Rahel Maria Liu
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Balmenhorn with the Bivouac Hut
(Picture credit to: ©
Inalto
)
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Overview
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The Balmenhorn is an unimportant peak of the
Wallis (if it is a mountain at all), although it is higher
than for example the famous Aiguille Verte, the Jungfrau
or the Breithorn. Because it is more than 4000m high, it
is interesting for those people who collect 4000m-peaks. It
belongs to the Monte Rosa massif.
The Balmenhorn has a rock summit and is situated
southwestern of the Corno Nero on the Lysglacier, on the
orographically left side of the Lysglacier. The highest point has
a Christstatue "Christo delle Vette" which is higher than
a normal person. It is made out of bronze. It was created
by Alfredo Bai on the 4th of September 1995. In 1985, the
Felice-Giordano-Bivacco was built. It is located a few meters
below the summit. You can reach it over the rocks with the
help of a fixed rope on the eastern side.
The Balmenhorn is reached very easily in 2 hours from the
Rif. Gnifetti when you go to the Lysjoch.
ROUTE:
Easy glacierroute, 1,5h from Gnifettihut, 560 hm, also
possible as skitour
.
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Getting There
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1. To the Balmenhorn:
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You come from the Rif. Gnifetti.
2. To the RIF. GNIFETTI (3611 m):
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You reach the hut from Punta Indren, 3260 m (cable car from
Alagna), in 1,5 h via Rif. Città di Mantova (350
hm), 45 min. from Rif. Mantova, 7 h from Alagna (2420hm).
In the lower part, it is a marked way (no. 5). The traverse
of the glacier is not marked. From Punta Indren, You traverse
the ski-run, slowly going up on the Indrenglacier till
you reach the outstanding rock band above which the Mantova-hut
is situated (yellow-red signs). You climb up the rock
steps (fixed ropes). From the hut, you go up over the
E-side of the Lysglacier to the N and at the end over rocks to the
Gnifettihut.
- You reach Punta Indren on the marked hiking way
no. 5 from Alagna via Dosso (1357m). You go to the Alpe
Oltu (1847m, cable car station, 1,5 h) and furth in the
Valle d'Olen up. You go along the Sasso del Diavolo and reach
almost Colle d'Olen, wher you turn right to the Vigevano-hut
(3 h). You go further along Passo Salati (2936m) to the
ridge-crest and traverse Stolemberg. Over the side of
the Indrenglacier, you reach the station (1 1/4 h, totally 6
h).
- You reach the Gnifetti hut also from Gressoney
in 6-7 h (1800hm). The lower part is a marked way (no.
6). Lift to Alpe Gabiet (1270 hm, 4,5 h). In the upper
part: easy glacier walk.
- You reach Alagna by car on the road no. E62 from
Brig via Simplonpass. You turn off at Ornavasso (near
the Lago Maggiore) and follow the small route to the S via
Omegna. Here turn right and drive along the western side
of the Lago d. Orta to Borgosésia. In Borgosésia
you take the road to the N an reach Alagna via Varallo
and Scopello.
- You reach Borgosésia also from the S from
Torino on the A4 till. Turn off with direction to the
N to Gattinara and Borgosésia.
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When To Climb
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Summer and winter (ski)
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Mountainhuts
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1. RIF. GNIFETTI (3647 m):
The Rif. Gnifetti is situated on a rockspur between
the Lysglacier and the Garsteletglacier.
2. Biv. Giordano:
- 6 beds, solar electricity (
Dumler
)
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Mountain Conditions and General Information
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1. GENERAL INFOS:
2. WEATHER
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Maps
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Schweizer Landeskarten:
1:25000 no. 1348 Zermatt
1:50000 no. 5006 Matterhorn-Mischabel
1:50000 no. 284 Mischabel
1:50000 no. 294 Gressoney
(to order at
DAV Service
)
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Books
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Hermann
Biner
, Hochtouren im Wallis. Vom Trient zum Nufenenpass.
2nd ed. 1996.
ISBN 3-859022-160-5
Helmut
Dumler
/Willi P. Burkhardt, Viertausender der Alpen.
11th ed. Munich 1998.
ISBN 3-7633-7427-2
Michael
Waeber
, Walliser Alpen. DAV-Gebietsführer. 12th
ed. Munich 1999.
ISBN 3-7633-2416-X
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