Bishorn
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Bishorn

13625 feet/4153 meters
Wallis (Weisshorn), Switzerland, Europe

Last update: September 13th, 2003
   © Copyright by Rahel Maria Liu



Bishorn

Bishorn
watched from Cabane de Tracuit
August 18th, 2003

© Copyright by Rahel Maria Liu


Overview

The Bishorn is an often visited 4000m-peak with 2 summits:
  • W-summit: 4153 m (Biner /Bundesamt für Landestopographie) (other measurements: 4158 m (Waeber) or 4161m (Vanis) or 4159 m (Dumler)).
  • E-summit: 4134 m (Dumler and Vanis)
    It builds the continuation of the Weisshorn-N-ridge. There are different reasons for its popularity:

    1. The magical limit of 4000 m.
    2. The short and unproblematic ascent on the glacier from the high situated Tracuithütte.
    3. The wonderful view, especially to the Weisshorn-N-rigde.

    But from a long distanced viewed, the Bishorn seems to be more the end of this ridge than a summit on its own. The highest point is the W-summit with snow. The E-summit consists of rocks and is not very much lower. In spring, you can go with ski almost to the highest point. The Bishorn is mostly traversed by the mountaineers who climb the Weisshorn-N-ridge. Not many people climb the Bishorn on other routes besides the NW-flank. Only a few people climb the NE-face or the E-ridge.

    • Routes Overview

    1. NW-flank (normal route, easiest way):
      - G 2, 930 hm, 2,5 h (Waeber)
      - F, I, 2,5 h from Tracuithütte, 900 hm, as skitour possible, depot below the rocks of the summit (Dumler)
      - L, F, 2,5 h (Biner)
    2. SW-ridge to the Weisshornjoch:
      - G 2, 100 hm, 1/4 h (Waeber)
      - PD, I+, 3 h from the Tracuithut, 900 hm (Dumler)
    3. E-ridge from the Bisjoch:
      - II (passages), G 5, 650 Hm, 3 h (Waeber)
      - AD-, II and I, mixed, from Turtmannhütte via Bisjoch, 3528m, and the Pointe Burnaby, 6,5 h (totally), 1700 hm (Dumler)
    4. Direct E-ridge
    • Firn, rock and snow
      •
    5. ONO-face:
      - 60° and more, G 10, great! little danger of icefall (Waeber)
      - 60° and 90° (key passage), average: 45-50°, TD-, 4-6 h, 650 hm (Dumler)
      - 47°, seracs 70° and more, 650 hm, 4-6 h (Vanis)
      - S, IV, 8 h (Biner)
    Getting There
    1. To the Bishorn:
    • a. You can come from the CABANE DE TRACUIT (3256 m).
    • b. You can come from the TURTMANNHÜTTE (2519m).
      •
    2. To the CABANE DE TRACUIT (3256 m):
    • You reach the hut from Zinal (1678m, Val d'Anniviers) in 4,5 h (1580m) directly. This is the shortest ascent. From the soutern end of Zinal (sign), you go on a very good and marked way via Dobert to Le Chiesso (2061m). You climb over the steep step below the alm Combautanna with a S-traverse. From here (2578m, 2 3/4 h), you go up on a way southern below the Diablon till below the Col de Tracuit. You reach it at the right side (SE). In a few minutes almost horizontally to the hut.
    • You reach the hut from Zinal via the Pas du Chasseur in 5 h (1630 hm). From the parking place at the S-end of Zinal, you go on a road along the E-side of the Talbach Naiscence to the S. About 500m after the bridge over the stream at the end of the Schwemmebene, you go up the hang (forest) to the E. At about 2000m, you traverse a rock face (exposed) to the S (Pas du Chasseur) and reach the Alpe Ar Piteta at 2200m. You go on the good way to the N, leave the turn off to the Ar-Pitetta-Hütte at Louchelet and reach Roc de la Vache (2581m, 3 h). You go down 50 hm to Combautanna and meet the direct ascent from Zinal (see above).
    • From Zinal, you can also go via Le Chiesso in 5,5 h (1630 hm). It is easier than via the Pas du Chasseur. From the parking place at the S-end of Zinal (bridge),you go on the E- or W-side along the Talbach Navisence to the S-end of the Schwemmebene. You follow the road on the W-side (do not turn off to Pas du Chasseur at the bridge). You go to the S to the hut Le Vichiesso (1862 m), further on the road and to the stream of the Zinalglacier. You cross it via a bridge, reach the turn off to the Mountethut, traverse to the left the Momingglacier-stream on another bridge (1907m) and go up on a good way to Le Chiesso (2082m) and L'Ar Pitetta. After 500 m in northern direction, you meet the way via Pas du Chasseur (see above).
    • From the Turtmannhütte, you reach the hut in 3,5 h (I, passage), 800 hm. From the hut, you follow the clear way up in SE-direction to the S-end of the Barrwand. You climb through an outstanding couloir (Gässi), on the orographically left side. You reach the moraines above. You have a view to the creavasses and can think about the way. You go straight on to the Schöllijoch. Then you go to the right and the moraine slightly down in order to reach the Bruneggglacier via a slippery rock passage on 2650 m. You traverse the glacier with SW-direction and enter a rockisle (Adlerflue) at about 2800m. You follow the track to the rock band and up to P. 2913 m. Afterwards, you go down on the western side of the Brunegglacier and traverse it to the Turtmannglacier at 2800m. You go below the flank of the Ciablon to the Tracuithut. This is also the ski-route.
    • From the Ar-Pitetta-hut, you reach the Tracuithut via the Col de Milon (2990m) in 3 h (750 hm ascent). It is partly without any way. From the Ar-Pitetta-hut, you traverse the grass hangs and moraines to the moraine which comes down from the Col de Milon to the S. Over this moraine, you go in 40 min. to the Col and afterwards over lumps of rocks and snow rests northern till 2700m down (Combautanna). Now via the hangs to the direct ascent from Zinal (see above). You meet it at P. 2931m.
    • You reach Zinal from Sierre (28 km) by bus or car via Vissoie and Ayer (Val d'Anniviers).
    • To Sierre from Sion (491m) in the West of Visp/Brig in the East: Sion is the main city of the Kanton Wallis. It has an international airport and IC-trainstation. It is bus junction:
      •
        a. Val d'Hérens (Arolla (Ferpècle) b. Val d'Hérémence (Dix-reservoir) c. Nax-Mase d. Crans/Montana e. Anzère (Lac de Tseusier) f. Savièse (Sanetschpass) g. Conthey (Derborence) h. Ovronnaz i. Thyon j. Nendaz
    • You reach Sierre by car:
      •
        a. from the West: From Geneva (airport) on the A1 to Lausanne, on the A9 via Montreux and Martigny. b. from the North: from Bern on the A6 to Spiez, from here the road to Kandersteg, at Kandersteg, you drive your car on a train and go by train through a tunnel; end of the tunnel: Goppenstein; you continue the road to the S and reach the main road from Sierre. c. from the East: from Bregenz on the A13 to Chur; turn off at Reichenau and continue the road no. 19 to Sierre via Flims - Sedrun - Andermatt - Gletsch - Fiesch - Brig. d. from the South : either from Como on the A2 via Bellinzona to Airollo, then road no.2 till Hospental and here to the left on the road no. 19 to Brig/Visp or from Arona till the end von the A26 and then the E62 via Domodóssola and Brig.
    3. To the TURTMANNHÜTTE (2519m):
    • You reach the hut from Gruben (1828m) in 3 h, from Vorderes Sänntum in 2 h, 620 hm. From Vorderes Sänntum, about 3 km southern of Gruben (parking possibilty, only taxi, no bus), you follow the road over the bridge and reach along the western side of the Turtmannbach the little reservoir. Further along the W-side, over the dam between the lake and the prereservoir to the E and zigzag to the ground station of the material lift. The good hiking way goes with S-direction parallel below the lift up. You turn around a rock on the S-side on which the hut is situated. In a few minutes to the hut. In winter: over the reservoir like in summer, then further on in the valley to the Bruneggglacier. You climb steeply at 2300m up to the hut (from SW).
    • You reach Gruben-Meiden by bus (in summer) and car from Turtmann/Rhônevalley (trainstation), 17 km. Turtmann is located at the main road through the Rhônevalley, just in the middle between Sierre and Visp.
      •

    When To Climb

  • Summer and winter (with skies)

    		•
    Camping and/or Accomodation

  • Camping in Zinal

    		•
    Mountainhuts

    1. CABANE DE TRACUIT (3256 m):

    The Cabane de Tracuit is situated southeastern of the Col de Tracuit, near the Turtmannglacier.
      (according to Dumler )
      - 140 beds
      - winter room
      - serviced from july to 20. september
      - phone: ++41(0)27/4751500
      - from Zinal (1678m, Val d'Anniviers) via Roc de la Vache in 4,5 h, from the Turtmannhütte in 4 h
      - in winter because of the danger of avalanches the longer way via the Alpe L'Ar Pitetta is recommendable
      - to Zinal from Sierre (28 km) by bus
      -internet: Cabane de Tracuit

    2. TURTMANNHÜTTE (2519m):

    The Turtmannhütte is situated on a rockspur above the northside of the Turtmannglacier.
      (according to Dumler )
      - 50 beds
      - winter room
      - serviced Apr./May and from last week in June to the end of september
      - phone: ++41(0)27/9321458
      - from Gruben (1828m) in 3 h, from Vorder Sänntum in 2 h
      - to Gruben-Meiden by bus (in summer) from Turtmann/Rhônevalley (trainstation), 17 km
      - internet: Turtmannhütte

    Mountain Conditions and General Information

    1. GENERAL INFO:
    2. WEATHER
    Maps

  • Schweizer Landeskarten:
      1:25000 no. 1327 Evolène
      1:25000 no. 1328 Randa
      1:25000 no. 1308 St. Niklaus
      1:50000 no. 5006 Matterhorn-Mischabel
      1:50000 no. 283S Arolla
      to order at
    http://www.dav-lifealpin.de
    http://www.swisstopo.ch/


    • Books

  • Hermann Biner , Hochtouren im Wallis. Vom Trient zum Nufenenpass. 2nd ed. 1996.
    ISBN 3-859022-160-5

  • Helmut Dumler /Willi P. Burkhardt, Viertausender der Alpen. 11th ed. Munich 1998.
    ISBN 3-7633-7427-2

  • Erich Vanis , Im steilen Eis. Munich 1980.
    ISBN 3-405-12158-2

  • Michel Vaucher, Walliser Alpen. Die 100 schönsten Touren. 2nd ed. Munich 1990.
    ISBN 3-7654-2124-3

  • Michael Waeber , Walliser Alpen. DAV-Gebietsführer. 12th ed. Munich 1999.
    ISBN 3-7633-2416-X