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Fletschhorn
Northface
Last update: April 15th, 2002
© Copyright by
Rahel Maria Liu
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The impressive Fletschhorn Northface (July 2001)
© Copyright by
Rahel Maria Liu
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Overview
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Type:
Ice Climb |
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Difficulty:
S+, 60°, G 10 |
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Time Required:
A long day |
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Approach
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From the bivuoac hut (3014m) 1 hour to the foot of the northface
(3200m), traversing the glacier.
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Route Description
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Total high of the northface: 750m. The first 200m are very
easy, 40° steep until a rock isle. Passing the rock isle by
the right because of falling ice pieces on the left side. From
the rock isle it is getting steeper and steeper until 60°.
With the sun shining directly into the face at late morning, ice
and snow like little avalanches fall from the left and the right
side. It ist objectively dangerous at that time. You must be quick.
At the end you have two options, either to the left, the "Nervenquergang",
a very difficult passage, which leads to the summit, or directly
leaving the northface to the NW-ridge which is the easier way. The
easiest way down: normal route to the Weissmies hut and Saas Grund.
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Essential Gear
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2 ice axes, crampons, rope, firnanchor (using of icescrews
not really possible).
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