13841 feet/4219 meters
Wallis (Mischabel), Switzerland, Europe
Last update: April 15th, 2002
© Copyright by
Rahel Maria Liu
Hohberghorn, viewed from Stecknadelhorn in the East
© Copyright by
Rahel Maria Liu
The Hohberghorn is a mountain
which belongs to the Nadelgrat. It has a snow summit. As
a mountain of the Nadelgrat it is not very interesting because
it is only one peak of many. But the Hohberghorn has a northface
which is also in summer not snowless. Its northface is similar
to the Lenzspitze northface. You know that there do not exist
so many of such pure snow northfaces in the Alpes any more,
especially such which are regularly steep and without seracs. All
the other routes around the Mischabelhütten can be overcrowded,
but in the northface of the Hohberghorn you are probably alone.
I did it solo. And I was by myself. From the Windjoch until
the summit of the Hohberghorn I met nobody. And the view and
panorama from the northface are wonderful.
The Northface was climbed for the first time by O.
K. Williamson with Heinrich Fuchs and the guide Franz Lochmatter
on 29th of July 1910.
The way back from the summit to the Mischabel hut
over the Stecknadelhorn (compare:
is mixed climbing, rock (II) and snow.
1. NOW-ridge from Hohbergjoch/Dürrenjoch
2. OSO-ridge from Stecknadelhorn
- II, 1,5 h, G 7, 300 hm (
- II (passages), 1 1/4 h, G 6, snow and ice, crumbling
in the lower part (
- pure ice tour, till 55°, G 8 (
- S, IV, 3,5 - 5,5 h totally, 1 - 2 h for the NE-face
- 50°, 320 hm, 2 h, from Mischabelhütten
to the foot of the face 3 h (
1. To the Hohberghorn:
2. To the Mischabelhütten:
a. You can come from the Mischabelhütten
- b. You can come from the Bordierhütte
3. To the Bordierhütte:
You reach the hut from Saas Fee in 4 h (on foot, 1540
hm). From Saas Fee, you go on the marked way (sign at the church)
in western direction to the end of the Torrentbach. You
traverse an avalanche barrier by a tunnel. You ascent over
the bridge and zigzag via Trift and Schönegge to the
end of the ridge which comes down from the Distelhorn to
the SW (P. 2448,6m, 1 3/4 h). The wa goes up further to
P. 2688m and the S-flank of the Distelhorn to the foot of
the Fallglacier, about 3000m (1 1/4h). Clear signs show the
way through rock, which you climb northern above the Fallglacier.
Via a rock rib, you reach in zigzag the hut (1 h).
- If you use the cable car to Hannigalp ,
the ascent takes 3/4 h less. After an horizontal traverse
to the Torrentbach, you go up below the Distelhorn E-flank
to Schönegge, where you meet the route, described
above. (3-3,5 h, 1030 hm). Pay attention at the beginning
at the summit station of the cable car: Interpret the sign
to the Mischabelhütten correctly and do not turn right
and do not go up, but keep on the main road/way which goes
horizontally at the beginning!
- You reach Saas Fee (1790m) with car or bus
from Visp/Brig. Saas Fee is a modern holiday village, surrounded
by many 4000m mountains and huge glaciers. You are not
allowed to drive by car through the village. You must park
at the main parking place at the entrance to the village.
- Brig is the main city of the upper Wallis
and the junction of the trains:
b. Furka-Oberalppass (Andermatt/Disentis, Glacierexpress)
d. Lake of Geneva-Milano
- In Brig, many busses arrive as well:
- You reach Visp/Brig by car:
a. from the West: From Geneva (airport) on the A1
to Lausanne, on the A9 via Montreux, Martigny and Sion to
Sierre. From Sierre the road no. 9 with direction to Brig. But
at Visp, you turn already right to the S with directin to
the Saaser valley. In Stalden, you turn left and leave
the Zermatter valley to the right. Here, the Saaser valley
beginns. Via Saas Baalen and Saas Grund, you reach Saas
b. from the North: from Bern on the A6
to Spiez, from here the road to Kandersteg, at Kandersteg,
you drive your car on a train and go by train through
a tunnel; end of the tunnel: Goppenstein; you continue
the road to the S and reach the main road from Sierre.
On the crossroad, you turn left (E) and reach Visp. From
here, continue as route a.
c. from the East: from Bregenz on the A13
to Chur; turn off at Reichenau and continue the road
no. 19 to Brig/Visp via Flims - Sedrun - Andermatt - Gletsch
- Fiesch. From Visp, continue as described in a.
d. from the South: either from Como on the A2 via
Bellinzona to Airollo, then road no.2 till Hospental and here
to the left on the road no. 19 to Brig/Visp or from Arona
till the end von the A26 and then the E62 via Domodóssola
You reach the hut from Gasenried in 4 h (1230m) and from St.
Niklaus in 5 h (1740hm). You have to traverse a glacier which
is marked in summer by poles.
- From Gasenried, you go on the road to the chapel
of Schalbettu, on the way over the Riedbach and zigzag
through the forest to the moraine of Alpja (2099m). On
the moraine crest, you go the way up to 2500m where you
reach the glacier. You do not enter the glacier, but go
up to the SW, zigzag the hang up till you reach 2700m by
a traverse. Here you descent to the glacier (sign) and traverse
this glacier to the E to the moraine. You traverse the moraine
below the hut. On the other side (signs) you got to the hut.
For the descent: the beginning of the way after the glacier
is marked clearly. This is the ascent also in winter. If
the conditions are good, you can also go from the summit
station Seetalhorn via the ski-run and the hangs of the Riedberg
to the glacier. But you have to pay attention to the traverse of
- You reach Gasenried via a small road from
St. Niklaus. St. Niklaus is located in the middle
of the Mattertal. You can go there by car, bus or train
from Visp/Brig. If you come by car from Visp, turn right
at Stalden and leave the Saasertal to your left. To Visp/Brig
as described above.
When To Climb
Summer (June until August)
No permits, fees etc. are required.
If you arrive by car, you have to use the central parking
place in Saas Fee because you are not allowed to drive your
car in Saas Fee.
Camping and/or Accomodation
There is a camping place in Saas Grund, where you
can stay after having returned from the Weissmieshütte.
Good and cheap tourist camp for example in Saas Grund:
Saaser Hütte Adler:
1. MISCHABELHÜTTEN (3329 m):
The Mischabelhütten are situated on a rockrib,
which separates the Hohblamglacier from the little Fallglacier.
Since 1975 there exists a new bigger hut above the old one,
which still keeps beds. From the huts you have a wonderful
view to Saas Fee and the Weissmiesgroup.
2. BORDIERHÜTTE (2886 m):
- 120 beds from June to October
- 60 beds in the old hut from November to May (open)
- serviced from June to October
- phone: ++41/27/9571317
- Email: firstname.lastname@example.org
The Bordierhütte is situated above the Riedglacier.
- 43 beds
- serviced July till middle of September
- winter room open all the year
- phone: ++41(0)27/9561909
Mountain Conditions and General Information
1. GENERAL INFOS:
3. BUS BRIG-SAAS FEE:
1:25000 no. 1327 Evolène
1:25000 no. 1328 Randa
1:50000 no. 5006 Matterhorn-Mischabel
to order a
, Hochtouren im Wallis. Vom Trient zum Nufenenpass.
2nd ed. 1996.
/Willi P. Burkhardt, Viertausender der Alpen. 11th
ed. Munich 1998.
Michel Vaucher, Walliser Alpen. Die 100 schönsten
Touren. 2nd ed. Munich 1990.
, Walliser Alpen. DAV-Gebietsführer. 12th ed.