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Mont Maudit

Northeast-Ridge

Last update: April 15th, 2002
   © Copyright by Rahel Maria Liu


Overview
Type: Mixed Climb (Rock and Ice)
Difficulty: 40°, PD, mixed, III- (passages), mostly II
Time Required: Most of a day

Approach
 
You reach the Col Maudit, where the ridge starts, easily with a traverse from the summit of the Mont Blanc du Tacul via little steep firn hangs to the Southwest. The easiest way is the route via the NW-flank, starting form the Aig. du Midi or the Ref. Cosmiques or the Biv. Abri Simond. For this approach compare the discription of the normal route to the Mont Blanc du Tacul ( NW-flank (normal route) ).

Route Description
Books (different valuations of difficulty): Eberlein : 40°, PD, mixed, III- (passages), mostly II. 430 hm, 3 h from the Col Maudit, 5,5 - 6 h from the Aig. du Midi Dumler : AD, till 45°, 3 h. 430 hm from the Col Maudit, mixed.
First Ascent: 31. July 1898 J. S. Masterman with A. and B. Supersaxo
Overview: The ridge starts at the Col Maudit (4035m), at the beginning with a rocky firn flank. After this, the ridge becomes distincter. Over the firn flank and the ridge to the summit.
Ascent: From the Col Maudit, you go the steep firn flank up while you keep on the right side of the real ridge. Below the rocks of the shoulder, you go up to the left at P. 4336m. You reach the NE-ridge about at that place where the SE-ridge comes up from the left. You go over the rocks up to the shoulder, then left and again right on the ridge to the summit tower. From W to the summit.
Descent: Long glacier walks with partly very big ascents: 1. Via the mainsummit of the Mont Blanc: From the summit of the Mont Maudit, you descent to the Col de la Brenva while you go along the frontier crest. Pay attention to the cornices at the Col de la Brenva! From the Col de la Brenva, you turn to the right (SW), go up the steep Mur de la Côte (mostly icy) to the less steep hangs of the summit. You go around the both rock isles (Petits Rochers Rouges and Petits Mulets) on the left side and reach the summit in 2 - 3 hours. Descents from the Mont Blanc via the normal routes ( Northflank via Grands Mulets or Dome du Goûter) or on other ways. 2. Via the Col du Mont Maudit (4345m) and the normal route of the Mont Blanc du Tacul to the Aig. du Midi.
Report: none yet

Essential Gear
1 ice axe, crampons, rope, slings.