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Mont Maudit
Northflank
Last update: April 15th, 2002
© Copyright by
Rahel Maria Liu
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Overview
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Type: Ice
Climb |
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Difficulty:
45°, PD+ |
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Time Required:
Most of a day |
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Approach
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You reach
the Col Maudit, where the ridge starts, easily with a traverse from the
summit of the
Mont Blanc du Tacul
via little steep firn hangs to the Southwest. The easiest
way is the route via the NW-flank, starting form the Aig. du Midi or
the Ref. Cosmiques or the Biv. Abri Simond. For this approach compare
the discription of the normal route to the Mont Blanc du Tacul (
NW-flank (normal route)
).
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Route Description
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Book: |
Eberlein
: 45°, PD+, pure firn/ice ascent, average
of steepness: 35°. 1,5 - 3 h for the flank. From the
Aig. du Midi 4 - 6 h |
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First Ascent: |
31. July 1901 P. Cassan, P. Kornacker and H. Kuhn |
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Ascent: |
From the Col Maudit, you go to the foot of the face. You go up
through the firn flank to the ridge on the left side of the summit
tower. If there is a sérac in the face, you go around
on the left side. Right (N) around the tower and from the
W to the summit. |
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Descent: |
Long glacier walks with partly very big ascents:
1. Via the mainsummit of the Mont Blanc: From
the summit of the Mont Maudit, you descent to the Col
de la Brenva while you go along the frontier crest. Pay
attention to the cornices at the Col de la Brenva! From
the Col de la Brenva, you turn to the right (SW), go up
the steep Mur de la Côte (mostly icy) to the less steep hangs
of the summit. You go around the both rock isles (Petits
Rochers Rouges and Petits Mulets) on the left side and reach
the summit in 2 - 3 hours. Descents from the Mont Blanc via
the normal routes (
Northflank via Grands Mulets
Dome du Goûter) or on other ways.
2. Via the Col du Mont Maudit (4345m) and the
normal route of the Mont Blanc du Tacul to the Aig. du
Midi. or |
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Report: |
none yet |
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Essential Gear
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2 ice axes, crampons, rope.
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