|| 13,330 feet/4,062
||Wallis, Switzerland, Europe
Last update: April 15th, 2002
© Copyright by
Rahel Maria Liu
In the Obergabelhorn Northface (June 2000)
(Picture credit to: ©Andreas Weinhold
The Obergabelhorn has very steep flanks to each side. The smooth iceface
to the north is very impressive. The southface is a pure rock face. It
is one of the very few rock faces in the Walliser Alpes which one can recommend.
The 4 ridges are more secure, since they have less danger of rock- and
icefall. The SW-ridge (Arbenridge) provides great rock climbing possibilities.
The NE-ridge to the Wellenkuppe is a mixed route. The SE-ridge is not
very difficult. The NW-Ridge (Coeur-Ridge) is only in the upper, snowy
part really interesting.
From the summit, one has a wonderful view to the Matterhorn with
- ZS, III+, 4,5 h (
, 231 )
2. SW-Ridge (Arbenridge):
- 250 hm, G 7, III- (1 passage), I and II near the summit;
the rest ice till 50° 4,5-5h from Rothornhut ( Waeber, 434 )
- ZS, III+, 3,5 h (
3. NW-ridge/Coeur-Ridge (from Mountethütte):
- G 6, III+ (short passage), II and I, 2,5 - 3 h, 500 hm,
very good rock (Waeber, 434 )
- ZS, III, 5 h (
- G 7, III+, ice till 50°, 5-6 h, 1170
hm, in the upper third beautiful firn ridge (Waeber, 438)
- Impressive Iceface, steepness: 55° in the average, at
the end steeper, 450 hm, 1250 hm from Mountethut (Waeber, 439)
- S, 6h (Biner, 238)
- Several routes through the S-face, the easiest one: IV,
G 7, good rock, very little danger of rockfall (Waeber, 439)
- S, IV+, 5 h (Biner, 240)
1. To the Obergabelhorn:
2. To the Rothornhütte (3198 m):
a. You can come from the Rothornhütte (3198 m).
- b. You can come from the Cabane du Mountet
3. To the Cabane du Mountet (2886m):
You reach the hut in 4,5 hours from Zermatt (1580 hm). You
reach the Berghaus Trift (2337m) in 2 hours from Zermatt. The
best way is if you follow the sign in the center of the
village. You go over grass to Bodmen and on the northern
side of the Triftbach to the Triftschlucht. The way goes
through is and to a bridge to the S-side. In zigzag you
go up to the hotel Edelweiss and the way along the Triftbach,
pass it then and climb up to the Trifthaus along the northern
side of the stream. Then you go further up along the stream
and reach Vieliboden. You go up to the moraines of the
Triftglacier and along the left/northern moraine in zigzag
to the Rothornhut. 2,5 h from Trift.
- You reach Zermatt (1616m) with car or bus
from Visp/Brig and by train from Täsch. Zermatt
is well-know in the whole world as one center of the Walliser
Alps. You are not allowed to drive your car in the
- Brig is the main city of the upper Wallis
and the junction of the trains:
b. Furka-Oberalppass (Andermatt/Disentis,
d. Lake of Geneva-Milano
- In Brig, many busses arrive as well:
- You reach Visp/Brig by car:
a. from the West: From Geneva (airport) on the A1 to
Lausanne, on the A9 via Montreux, Martigny and Sion to
Sierre. From Sierre the road no. 9 with direction to
Brig. But at Visp, you turn already right to the S
with directin to the Saaser valley. In Stalden, you
turn right and leave the Saaser valley to the left.
Here, the Matter valley beginns. Via St. Niklaus, Randa
and Täsch, you reach Zermatt.
b. from the North: from Bern on the
A6 to Spiez, from here the road to Kandersteg, at
Kandersteg, you drive your car on a train and go
by train through a tunnel; end of the tunnel: Goppenstein;
you continue the road to the S and reach the main road from
Sierre. On the crossroad, you turn left (E) and reach
Visp. From here, continue as route a.
c. from the East: from Bregenz on
the A13 to Chur; turn off at Reichenau and continue
the road no. 19 to Brig/Visp via Flims - Sedrun - Andermatt -
Gletsch - Fiesch. From Visp, continue as described in a.
d. from the South: either from Como on the A2 via
Bellinzona to Airollo, then road no.2 till Hospental and
here to the left on the road no. 19 to Brig/Visp or from
Arona till the end von the A26 and then the E62 via
Domodóssola to Brig.
You reach the hut from Zinal on the E-route (4 1/2 h, 1250
hm, 9 km): From the parking place at the southend of Zinal,
you cross a bridge and follow the road on the western
side of the Navisence to the S till it goes up. You keep
on the road which goes up to the alphut Le Vichiesso (1862m).
Shortly afterwards, you turn right to the new Mountet-hut-way.
You go the road down to the left, traverse the stream of
the glacier end (Zinalglacier) on a bridge. You reach the
turn off to the Tracuit-hut and Ar-Pitetta-hut (1,5 h).
You take the right way and go up zigzag in SE-direction, traverse
the western hangs of the Besso above the breaks of the Zinalglacier.
You turn around the Besso-SW-ridge via a rock zone below
P. 3052m. In SE-direction, you reach the hut via lumps of
- You reach the hut from Zinal on the W-route (4
1/2 h, 1350 hm, 9 km). From the parking place at the southend
of Zinal, you cross a bridge and follow the road on the
western side of the Navisence to the S till it goes up.
You keep on the road which goes up to the alphut Le Vichiesso
(1862m). Here, you leave the way and go up to the Petit-Mountet-hut
(2 h). The new way goes up over the hangs of the Pgne
de la Le, around a rock zone at about 2550 m. Then you
go down and reach the falling line of the Bouquetins-O-rib which
leads to the Zinalglacier via the break. You traverse the glacier
with SE-direction and go up on the orographically right
side. You leave it at P. 2652m and go up to the hut over
the W-hang. The skiascent goes over the whole Zinalglacier.
Pay attention to avalanches from the flanks if there is
- You reach Zinal from Sierre (28 km) by bus or car
via Vissoie and Ayer (Val d'Anniviers).
- To Sierre from Sion (491m) in the West of Visp/Brig
in the East.
When To Climb
Camping and/or Accomodation
Camping and hotels in Zermatt or
other villages in the valley
1. Rothornhütte (3198 m):
The hut is situated at the foot of Eseltschuggen,
at the end of the SE-ridge of the Zinalrothorn, and on
the left side of the Triftglacier.
2. Cabane du Mountet (2886m):
- 100 beds
- winter room with 20 beds (
- serviced: middle July to middle September
- phone: ++41(0)27/9672043
The hut is situated right above the glacier de
Zinal, the lowest end of the Blanc-de-Moming-SW-ridge.
- 105 beds
- serviced from July until the end of September
- from October to June: 50 beds
- phone: ++41(0)27/4751431
- internet: Cabane
Mountain Conditions and General Information
1. GENERAL INFO:
1:25000 no. 1327 Evolène
1:25000 no. 1328 Randa
1:50000 no. 5006 Matterhorn-Mischabel
to order at
, Hochtouren im Wallis. Vom Trient zum Nufenenpass.
2nd ed. 1996.
/Willi P. Burkhardt, Viertausender der Alpen.
11th ed. Munich 1998.
Michel Vaucher, Walliser Alpen. Die 100 schönsten
Touren. 2nd ed. Munich 1990.
, Walliser Alpen. DAV-Gebietsführer. 12th
ed. Munich 1999.