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Petersenspitze
11430 feet/3484 meters
Tyrol (Ötztal), Austria, Europe
Last update: April 15th, 2002
© Copyright by
Rahel Maria Liu
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Petersenspitze, Wildspitze, Brochkogel
(Picture credit to:
© Blacknudl
)
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Overview
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The Petersenspitze is an
interesting little mountain because of its northface. In
combination with the northwestface of the Hinterer Brochkogel
and the Taschachwand-northface it is part of the so called
"Ötztaler Eisexpress". But because in summer the northface of
the Taschachwand is quite snowless and therefore objectively
dangerous, people today normally climb only the northface of
the Petersenspitze and the NW-face of the Hinterer Brochkogel
and add the nw-ridge to the Wildspitze instead of the Taschachwand.
Besides the northface there are different easy ways to
the summit (from SE, W-ridge, from the N) and also the
demanding NW-flank (60°, II). Many people go there.
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Routes Overview
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1. From the SE
2. W-ridge
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long ice tour with ridge traverse. 4-5 h from Taschachhaus
3. Taschachhochjoch-NW-flank ("NBV-Jugendführe")
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ice till 60°, rock II, face: 550 m , 3-4 h
4. From the N via Taschachhochjoch
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interesting ice tour on the glacier (crevasses!), also as
descent. 4 h from Taschachhaus
5. Northface
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ice 45°-50°, face: 1 h, 150 hm
According to Klier
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Getting There
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1. To the Petersenspitze:
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a. You can come from the Taschachhaus (2433 m).
- b. You can come from the Vernagthütte/Würzburger
Haus (2766 m).
2. To the Taschachhaus:
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You reach the Taschachhaus: from the Taschachalm or from
Mittelberg (1616m) in 2-2,5 h on a road (at the beginning). It is
a marked way all the time, which you have to follow straight
on. You can see the Taschachhaus. The long way on the road
is quite even until you reach the station of the material
cable car. You can also go by mountainbike to this place
and leave your mountain bike here. From this point, you
have to continue on a smaller hiking way which goes steeper
up behind the bridge. Follow this way over the hangs till
you reach the hut.
- You reach Mittelberg by bus or car on the road
through the Pitztal from Imst (train station) via Wenns,
St. Leonhard and Plangeross.
- You reach Imst by train or car on the A12 from
Innsbruck (airport) in the E or mostly on the road E60
from Bludenz in the W.
3. To the Vernagthütte/Würzburger Haus (2766 m):
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You reach the hut from Vent to the hut: in 3,5 to 4 h. You
have to follow the marked hiking way no. 920. You only have to
follow the valley all the time.
- You reach Vent on the road through the Ötztal
from Ötztal (trainstation) via Ötz, Sölden
and Zwieselstein. In Zwieselstein, you have to turn right
to the Venter Tal.
- You reach Ötztal by train (station: Ötztal
Bahnhof) or car on the A12 from Innsbruck (E) or from
Bludenz (W) on the E60 and A12 via Landeck. Turn off at
Ötztal.
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When To Climb
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Summer (june-september)
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Mountainhuts
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1. Taschachhaus (2433 m)
The Taschachhaus is situated on the Pitztaler Urkund,
on a green plateau above the tongues of the Taschach- and
the Sexegertenglacier.
according to Klier:
- 125 beds
- winter room with 16 beds in the old hut (open)
- serviced from end of june to september
- phone: ++43(0)5413/8239 (in the valley: ++43(0)5413/8205
or 8220)
- internet:
DAV
or
Taschachhaus
2. Vernagthütte/Würzburger Haus (2766 m)
The Vernagthütte is situated in the end of the Rofenvalley
on the N-side of the Guslarglacier.
according to Klier:
- 174 beds
- winter room with 20 beds (open), in an own hut
near the main hut (30 m)
- serviced from the beginning of march until the
middle of may, at Whitsun, from the end of june until
the end of september
- phone (valley): ++43(0)5254/8128
- internet:
Vernagthütte
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Mountain Conditions and General Information
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1. GENERAL INFOS:
2. WEATHER
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Maps
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Alpenvereinskarte
1:25000 no. 30/6: Ötztaler Alpen. Wildspitze
to order at
DAV Service
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Books
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Walter Klier, Ötztaler Alpen.
Alpenvereinsführer. 12th ed. Munich 1995.
ISBN 3-7633-1123-8
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