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Tour Ronde
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Height: |
12,440 feet/3,792 meters |
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Location: |
Haute-Savoie/Aosta (Mont Blanc), France/Italy, Europe |
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Lat/Lon: |
45.85°N, 6.9°E |
Last update: April 15th, 2002
© Copyright by
Rahel Maria Liu
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Overview
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Tour Ronde is a little mountain in the Mont Blanc Massif. It is easy
to reach. You have a wonderful view to Peuterey, Brenva, Maudit, Tacul,
and Capucin. It is often visited. You can see the northface far from the
Glacier du Géant.
First ascent: J.H. Backhouse, T. H.Carson, D.W.Freshfield, C.C.Tucker,
D. Balley, M. Payot, 22. July 1867.
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Routes Overview
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1. West/Gervasutti Couloir: 50°, AD, 250 hmm 3,5 h from Col du Géant
(Eberlein, p. 179)
2. Northface: 55°, D-, 350 hm, 2-3 h (Eberlein, p. 180)
3. South-East-Ridge (normal route): II, mixed, PD, 600 lm, 250 hm, 3-4h
from Col du Géant (Eberlein, p. 179)
4. Northeast-Pillar: VI-, mostly IV and V with passages V+, TD-; most
difficult passage: also A0 (V). 250 hm, 4-5 h (Eberlein, p. 180)
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Getting There
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1. To the Tour Ronde:
- a. You
can come from the Ref. Cosmiques/Biv. Abri Simond. (Compare the route
discription of the
NE-ridge
and the
N-flank
of Mont Maudit.)
- b. You can come from the Rif. Torino
2. To the
Ref. Cosmiques and the Biv. Abri Simond:
- In order
to reach the hut, you need about 1/2 h from the Aig. du Midi. If you leave
the cable car station via the bridge, you go to the Southsummit. On the
firn ridge, you go down with SE-direction to an even ridgeplatform; then
turn right to the S and SW-direction below the S-face of the Aig. du Midi.
Pay attention to crevasses!
- You reach the Aig. du Midi with cable car from
Chamonix.
3. To the
Rif. Torino
- You reach
the hut directly with the cable car from Entrèves/
Courmayeur
(Italy).
- You can reach the hut directly also with the Helbronner
cable car from the Aiguille du Midi (to Aiguille du Midi with the cable
car from Chamonix
). Pay attention: The Helbronner cable car, traversing the Géant
glacier, is mostly closed.
- Or you go on foot from the Aiguille du Midi over
the glacier du Géant (3 h): From the foot of the S-face of the
Aig. du Midi you go on the almost even glacier to the Pointe Lachenal,
turn left (E) to the glacier valley below the rugged E-face of the Mont
Blanc du Tacul. You go along this E-face of the Tacul and the Pointe
Adolphe Rey in order to loose only little height. Now you turn to the
ESE to the Col des Flambeaux. From here in a few minutes to the Ref.
Torino. It is a very beautiful glacier walk with 200 hm ascent. Difficulty:
F.
4. You reach
the Chamonix Valley by train :
- a. From
Martigny (Switzerland) via Vallorcine.
- b. From Geneva (airport) via Anncey (TGV till here)
and St. Gervais.
5. You reach
the Chamonix Valley by bus :
- From/via
Annecy, Geneva, Grenoble, Courmayeur, Aoste and Turin
6 . You reach
the Chamonix Valley by car :
- a. From
Geneva (from the NW) on the A40 till St. Gervais and from here on the
N205.
- b. From Martigny (from the NE, Switzerland) via
Vallorcine and the Col des Montets on the road no. N506.
7. You reach
the Val Ferret (Italy) by bus or car
:
- a. From
Chamonix through the Mont Blanc Tunnel from the NW.
- b. From Torino (from the SE) on the A5 via Villeneuve.
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When To Climb
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You can climb the Tour Ronde all the year. During winter, the advantage
for the climbs of the northface is less danger of rock and ice fall.
But the problem is the coldness! Be aware that it could be -30°C!
The danger of getting frostbites is very high!
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Red Tape
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There are no permits or fees required. There is no
seasonal closure. Only the Helbronner Cable Car is mostly closed because
of ecological reasons. There is a big parking place in Chamonix near the
Cable Car ground station. But if there are winter sport sessions in Chamonix,
it might be closed. Then it is really difficult to find a parking place.
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Camping and/or Accomodation
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There is a campingplace in
Chamonix
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Mountainhuts
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1. Ref. des Cosmiques (3613 m)
The Ref. des Cosmiques is situated on a shoulder between the Col
du Midi and the SW-ridge of the Aig. du Midi (Cosmiques-ridge).
according
to
Eberlein
(p. 52):
- 140 beds
- guarded from February till october
- phone: ++33(0)450544016
- internet:
Rif. Cosmiques
2. Abri
Simond Bivouac
The Abri Simond Bivouac is situated just a few meters northern
of the Ref. des Cosmiques, just at the beginning of the Arête des
Cosmiques.
- 18
beds
- open in winter, when Ref. des Cosmiques is closed
- a few words: I can highly recommend this little
bivouac hut of about 30 qm!!! I have stayed there for 1 week in winter
(January/February). I promise you: Never in life, you will forget this
experience ... when it is -30°C outside, and stormy with 120 km/h,
without toilette of course, without heating, without light, without water
of course, the hut never been cleaned, you almost poisoned with the vapours
of the many gasoline stoves burning hours and hours .... well you must
experience it by yourself .... one just cannot describe it!!!
3. Rif.
Torino (3322m/3375m)
The Rif. Torino has 2 huts, the lower and older one and the upper,
new one. Both huts are connected by a tunnel.
the lower old one
according
to
Eberlein
(pp. 64-65):
- with 70 beds
- serviced from October to June
- Tel. 00390/165/846484
- internet:
Rif.Torino.old
the upper
new one
according
to
Eberlein
(pp. 65-65):
- with 170 beds
- serviced from June to September
- Tel. 00390/165/844034 (expensive)
- internet:
Rif.Torino.new
You can find
further information concerning possibilities to stay on the Géant
Glacier on the
Ref. des Cosmiques/Abri Simond Bivouac HUT
-page.
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Mountain Conditions and General Information
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1. WEATHER INFOS:
2. GENERAL
INFOS:
3. TRAIN
(CHAMONIX VALLEY):
0033/450
53 1298
0033/8 36 35 35 35
0033/450530702 (train station Chamonix)
internet: www.cff.ch
4. BUS
(CHAMONIX VALLEY):
0033/450
53 0555
0033/450 53 0115
5. CABLE
CARS
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Maps
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Institut Géographique National
1:25000 no. 3630 OT (Chamonix)
1:25000 no. 3531 ET (St-Gervais)
to order at:
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Books
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Damilano/Perroux, Neige, Glace Et Mixte: Mont Blanc. Chamonix: Editions
Ice, 1996.
ISBN 2950986803
(to order at
cordee.co.uk
)
Hartmut Eberlein: Mont-Blanc-Gruppe. DAV-Gebietsführer.
9th ed. Munich 2000.
ISBN 3-7633-2414-3
(to order at
amazon.de
)
Goedeke, Richard: The Alpine 4000m peaks by the Classic
Routes. Birmingham: Menacha Ridge Press, 1997.
ISBN 0897321111
(to order at
amazon.com
)
Laroche/Lelong: Die Gipfel des Montblanc. Munich
1999.
ISBN 3-405-15693-9
(to order at
amazon.de
)
Michel Piola: Mont Blanc Topo Guide
Vol. 1 (Rock)
. Published by Editions Equinoxe 1988. Distributed by Cordee £17.95
ISBN 904405281
Michel Piola: Mont Blanc Topo Guide
Vol. 2
. Published by Editions Equinoxe 1993. Distributed by Cordee £17.95
ISBN Unknown
Gaston Rébuffat: The Mont Blanc Massif. The
100 Finest Routes. London 1996.
ISBN 1-898573-03-4
(to order at
amazon.de
or at
amazon.com
)
Erich
Vanis
, Im steilen Eis. Munich 1980.
ISBN 3-405-12158-2
(to order at:
online-buchvertrieb.de)
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