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Piz Scerscen
NW-Ascent/Eisnase (Icenose)
Last update: April 15th, 2002
© Copyright by
Rahel Maria Liu
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Overview
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Type:
Mixed Climb (Rock and Ice) |
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Difficulty:
S, 60°, IV |
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Time Required:
Most of a day |
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Approach
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From the Tschiervahütte, you have to cross the glacier
with direction to the W-foot of Piz Umur. From there, it goes up
a steeper snowflank. Then you go on the glacier along the west
side of Piz Umur to the firn saddle (the so called Fuorcla da l'Umur),
which is located on 3273 m. You need about 2 1/2 h from the Tschiervahütte.
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Route Description
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From the firn saddle, you climb the rock ridge with SE-direction,
mostly on the right side. The rocks are crumbling and bad. Maybe,
this is the most difficult part of the route. After the rock passage
comes the nose (30m, 60°). Above the nose, you go up the firn
flank, which is not very steep, until you reach the final steep
ice flank. Now you go directly to the summit. It is 700 hm from
the Fuorcla da l'Umur. If you are quick, you need 4-8 h. The descent
is as well via the ice nose.
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Essential Gear
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2 ice axes, crampons, ice screws, slings.
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