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Similaun
Northface
Last update: April 15th, 2002
© Copyright by
Rahel Maria Liu
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Overview
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Type:
Ice Climb |
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Difficulty:
55° |
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Time Required:
Half a day |
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Approach
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From the Martin-Busch-Hut: 3 h until the foot
of the northface (3250m) over the Marzellglacier, direction: Similaunjoch.
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Route Description
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The northface is quite regularly steep, between 45° and 55°
(key passage at the end). It does not have seracs. It is 350 m high. You
need 2 1/2 - 4 h for the face. In early summer, there is no objective danger
except snowboarders coming down ... Later in the summer, it becomes snowless,
and the danger of rockfall rises. This northface is not difficult and therefore
suitable for beginners of northface climbing. Nevertheless, the view is
beautiful. Normally, you do not need any rope. It is simply a pleasure
tour. The route goes through the middle-left part of the northface and
directly to the summit. The problems at the end (at the climbing out) are
the snow cornices.
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Essential Gear
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2
ice-axes, crampons, ropes.
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