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Mont Blanc du Tacul
Chèrécouloir
Last update: April 14th, 2002
© Copyright by
Rahel Maria Liu
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The Chèrécouloir is the narrow ice couloir in the right
part of the rock triangle
(July 2002)
© Copyright by
Rahel Maria Liu
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Overview
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| Type: Ice Climb |
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Difficulty: D+, 80° (Eberlein); 85°,
4 (Damilano
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| Time Required: Half a day |
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Approach
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The best starting point is the
Abri Simond Bivouac. From this point, you reach the foot of the
triangle in half an hour with snowshoes (with ski less time).
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Route Description
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During winter it's a tough but wonderful ice-climb with very good ice.
Because of the many bolts it's suitable for beginners of winter
ice-climbing. You should pay attention that not too many people are
above you because of
the danger of falling icepieces and because of the climbing tempo. The
risk
of getting serious frostbites is enormous! For sometimes it's about
-30°C while climbing during winter.
The Chèrécouloir is a very slender couloir which goes up
in the very right part of of the triangle. After having passed the
bergschrund, you climb to the first steep step. The ice becomes steeper
and steeper (at the beginning 60°, then 70° and 80°). After
a less steep passage, you have to climb over the second very steep
passages with 75°. At the end, you climb on the right side of the
mixed ridge until you reach the end of the triangle. Then you can go to
the summit
of the Mont Blanc du Tacul in 1 h or abseil down through the same
couloir
directly.
Difficulty:
1.
Eberlein :
80° (short passage), 1 rope length 70°, the rest 50° to
60°, D+, short, but interesting couloir, frequently climbed, 300
hm, 3-4 h
2. Damilano/Perroux :
II 4, 350 hm, L1: 45°, L2: 50°, L3: 60°/75°, L4:
85°/70°/50°, L5: 60°/70°/80°
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Essential Gear
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Sharp crampons and 2 sharp ice
axes. 2 half-ropes.
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