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Mont Blanc du Tacul
Northwestflank
Last update: April 14th, 2002
© Copyright by
Rahel Maria Liu
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Normalroute through the northwestflank of Mont Blanc du Tacul
© Copyright by
Rahel Maria Liu
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Overview
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Type:
Basic Snow/Glacier Climb |
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Difficulty:PD, till 40° |
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Time Required:
Half a day |
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Approach
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You reach the foot of the NW-flank of the
Mont Blanc du Tacul from the the Ref. Cosmiques or the Biv. Abri Simond
in 1/2 h or from the Aig. du Midi in 1 hour via the Col du Midi.
From the Aig. du Midi to the Col du Midi: In order to reach
the Col du Midi below the Ref. Cosmiques, you need about 1/2 h from
the Aig. du Midi. If you leave the cable car station via the bridge,
you go the the Southsummit. On the firn ridge, you go down with SE-direction
to an even ridgeplatform; then turn right to the S and SW-direction below
the S-face of the Aig. du Midi. Pay attention to crevasses! From the foot
of the S-face of the Aig. du Midi with S/SW-direction across the glacier
to the Col du Midi and to the foot of the NW-flank of the Tacul.
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Route Description
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| Books: |
1.
Rébuffat
: 716 hm from the Col du Midi, 2,5 - 3 h from the Aig. du Midi
to the Mont Blanc du Tacul. 2.
Dumler
: PD, till 40°, 3-4 h from the Aig. du Midi, 650 hm from
the bergschrund, glacier tour, also as skitour possible. |
| First Ascent: |
8th of August 1855. One or several members
of the Hudson-Kennedy party. |
| Ascent: |
Rébuffat
: "Leave the col proper on the right to go across to Mont Blanc
du Tacul which is climbed up the main slope, at first diagonally. Then
either directly or turning the serac barriers and the crevasses, if they
are uncrossable, on the right, go up again diagonally to the shoulder
formed by the almost horizontal section of the W Ridge. Go back left to
reach the summit of Mont Blanc du Tacul (2 - 2 1/2 hrs depending on conditions)."
(P. 57) Pay attention to the crevasses: Every time, I was at the Mont
Blanc, I have seen helicopters rescueing a person who had fallen into
a crevasse on this NW-flank route of the Mont Blanc du Tacul. |
| Descent: |
The same route as the ascent. 1 h. |
| Report: |
none yet |
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Essential Gear
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1 ice axe, crampons, rope.
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