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Vincent Pyramide
13828 feet/4215 meters
Aosta (Monte Rosa), Italy, Europe
Last update: April 15th, 2002
© Copyright by
Rahel Maria Liu
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Vincent Pyramide and Gnifetti hut (January 97)
(Picture credit to: ©
Naert Bart
)
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Overview
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The Vincent Pyramide is
the most southern 4000m peak of the Monte Rosa massif. It
is the "home summit" of the Rif. Gnifetti.
The first climber was Johann Nikolaus Vincent together with
3 other people on 5th August 1819. The NE-ridge was climbed for
the first time in 1851 by the brothers Schlagintweit with
the guide Peter Beck. It is interesting especially for ski-mountaineers
although they normally climb the shorter NW-flank.
The Vincent Pyramide is a very easy snow climbing
peak with diffrent routes: the SW-flank - S-ridge - S-flank
in summer and the shorter NW-flank in winter for skimountaineers.
Not discutable are the dangerous routes (V) through the crumbling
and objectively dangerous 500 m high S-face. But there are
3 interesting mixed routes in the 350 m high SW-face (all III+).
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Routes Overview
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1. SW-flank/-ridge (normal route):
- I (passages), till 35°, PD-, 2 h from the Gnifettihut, 605
hm, also as skitour (
Dumler
)
- I, G 4, 600 hm, 2,5 h (
Waeber
)
2. SW-face:
- AD+, 3 h, 350 hm, mixed (
Dumler
)
3. SE-ridge from the Punta Giordani:
4. NW-flank from the Lysjochroute:
- G 2, 2 h from Gnifetti, 60 hm (
Waeber
)
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Getting There
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1. To the Vincent Pyramide:
-
You come from the Rif. Gnifetti.
2. To the RIF. GNIFETTI (3611 m):
-
You reach the hut from Punta Indren, 3260 m (cable car from
Alagna), in 1,5 h via Rif. Città di Mantova (350 hm), 45
min. from Rif. Mantova, 7 h from Alagna (2420hm). In the
lower part, it is a marked way (no. 5). The traverse of
the glacier is not marked. From Punta Indren, You traverse
the ski-run, slowly going up on the Indrenglacier till
you reach the outstanding rock band above which the Mantova-hut
is situated (yellow-red signs). You climb up the rock steps
(fixed ropes). From the hut, you go up over the E-side
of the Lysglacier to the N and at the end over rocks to the
Gnifettihut.
- You reach Punta Indren on the marked hiking way
no. 5 from Alagna via Dosso (1357m). You go to the Alpe
Oltu (1847m, cable car station, 1,5 h) and furth in the
Valle d'Olen up. You go along the Sasso del Diavolo and reach
almost Colle d'Olen, wher you turn right to the Vigevano-hut
(3 h). You go further along Passo Salati (2936m) to the ridge-crest
and traverse Stolemberg. Over the side of the Indrenglacier,
you reach the station (1 1/4 h, totally 6 h).
- You reach the Gnifetti hut also from Gressoney
in 6-7 h (1800hm). The lower part is a marked way (no. 6).
Lift to Alpe Gabiet (1270 hm, 4,5 h). In the upper part:
easy glacier walk.
- You reach Alagna by car on the road no. E62 from
Brig via Simplonpass. You turn off at Ornavasso (near
the Lago Maggiore) and follow the small route to the S via
Omegna. Here turn right and drive along the western side
of the Lago d. Orta to Borgosésia. In Borgosésia
you take the road to the N an reach Alagna via Varallo
and Scopello.
- You reach Borgosésia also from the S from
Torino on the A4 till. Turn off with direction to the
N to Gattinara and Borgosésia.
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When To Climb
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Summer and winter (ski)
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Mountainhuts
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1. RIF. GNIFETTI (3647 m):
The Rif. Gnifetti is situated on a rockspur between
the Lysglacier and the Garsteletglacier.
2. Biv. Giordano:
- 6 beds, solar electricity (
Dumler
)
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Mountain Conditions and General Information
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1. GENERAL INFOS:
2. WEATHER
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Maps
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Schweizer Landeskarten:
1:25000 no. 1348 Zermatt
1:50000 no. 5006 Matterhorn-Mischabel
1:50000 no. 284 Mischabel
1:50000 no. 294 Gressoney
to order at
DAV Service
http://www.swisstopo.ch/
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Books
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Hermann
Biner
, Hochtouren im Wallis. Vom Trient zum Nufenenpass.
2nd ed. 1996.
ISBN 3-859022-160-5
Helmut
Dumler
/Willi P. Burkhardt, Viertausender der Alpen. 11th
ed. Munich 1998.
ISBN 3-7633-7427-2
Michael
Waeber
, Walliser Alpen. DAV-Gebietsführer. 12th ed.
Munich 1999.
ISBN 3-7633-2416-X
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